Double-Breasted Suits

A stronger line

A double-breasted suit is a statement, and it should be treated as one. The overlapping front, the peak lapels, the two columns of buttons. None of it is subtle, and it is not supposed to be. Worn correctly, it is the most flattering jacket cut in menswear. Worn carelessly, it is the least.

Varrison double-breasted suits are cut in a tailored fit and arrive ready to wear, made from high quality fabric.

Why it works

The overlapping front creates a broad, unbroken plane across the chest and a strong diagonal line from shoulder to closing button. The effect is to widen the shoulders and narrow the waist visually, which is why the cut has always suited men who want more presence in the upper body. Peak lapels reinforce the same upward line.

It is also more forgiving through the midsection than a single-breasted jacket, because the extra layer of fabric conceals rather than reveals.

The one rule

A double-breasted jacket stays buttoned when you are standing. Always. The cut depends on the front being closed. Unbuttoned, the overlap hangs open and the whole line collapses. Unbutton it when you sit, fasten it again when you stand. This becomes automatic within a week.

When to wear it

Weddings, particularly as a guest who wants to look considered rather than generic. Evening events. Business settings that lean traditional. It works best as a second or third suit. Buy navy or charcoal single-breasted first, then add a double-breasted when you want range rather than coverage.

Wearing it

A clean spread or semi-spread collar, since peak lapels need a collar with enough presence to balance them. Keep the tie relatively simple; the jacket is already the focal point and a loud tie competes with it. Because the jacket stays fastened, pay attention to the fit through the waist, because a double-breasted that pulls at the closure is more obvious than a single-breasted that does the same.